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5 WAYS ISSEY MIYAKE TRANSFORMED THE FASHION INDUSTRY

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Few designers’ names have been as synonymous with fashion innovation as Issey Miyake, the Japanese artist known for his crisp pleating, avant-garde cutting, and trademark perfumes. The iconic fashion designer sadly passed away after a successful 52-year long career after helping many people redefine themselves through clothing. Today, we honour his contributions and reflect on 5 of Miyake’s most well-known and inventive designs.

Miyake famously said that “design is not for philosophy—it’s for life”, dedicated to work with high utility, accessible, eccentric and full of joy. Let’s look at 5 of his notable popular works below.

 

  1. Pleats Please

Throughout his career, Miyake radically reimagined the potential of fabrics. Working with his textile director Makiko Minagawa and Japanese textile mills, he began to produce the famous Pleats collections, which use thermally processed polyester materials that are not pleated before sewing but are manufactured considerably larger and then pleated in machines.

Miyake incorporated aspects of the colour palette and the weird sculptural shells around people in these paintings, an excellent example of how his influences were always abstract and suggestive. Pleats Please, his highly commercial collection, was released in 1993.

 

2. Steve Jobs

Tim Mosenfelder—Getty Images

Miyake’s art was the inspiration for Jobs to design his outfit. While early plans for an Apple uniform were scrapped, Jobs remained enamoured with the concept of having one made for himself. He famously wore Levi’s 501 jeans, New Balance sneakers, and custom Issey Miyake black turtleneck sweaters, which he purchased in bulk for $175 apiece, eventually building a collection of more than 100.

 

3. The Bao Bao, 2000

Credit: Bao Bao

In a world of designer bags that double as status symbols, Miyake’s Bao Bao bag is connected with intelligence, artistry, and creativity, giving its bearer the impression that they can channel all of these qualities. The bag first appeared in 2000 and was renamed the Bao Bao in 2010 as part of a rebranding attempt. It now comes in a variety of variants, ranging from totes to fanny packs. Whatever the style, the Bao Bao is designed to invoke geometric wonder with its mesh fabric and interlocking polyvinyl triangles, change shapes as the owner fills it with personal belongings.

 

4. 1992 Olympics – Uniforms

Masaya Yoshimura

After Lithuania won independence following the fall of the Soviet Union in 1992, Miyake was commissioned to create a design for the country’s inaugural participation in the Olympic Games. The team’s costumes were a hooded jacket, t-shirts, and silver trousers made of lightweight polyester pleated in Miyake’s distinctive style.

 

5. Flying Saucer Dress, 1994

Nicholas Alan Cope, courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

The Flying Saucer Dress debuted in Miyake’s Spring Summer 1994 presentation, and was made of concertina-pleated discs in vividly coloured polyester. Miyake devised a paper-lantern silhouette with his trademark pleated-polyester manufacturing process, which allows the garment to be compressed, flattened, and expanded. When worn, this causes the garment to stretch and bounce. In 2016, the dress was on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Manus x Machina show, which explored the impact of technology on fashion.

 

After debuting in New York in 1971, followed by Paris in 1973, we see the many years of how Miyake combined technology and tradition, experimenting with Japanese aesthetics and the uncut, untailored clothing. He commissioned high-tech textiles that inspired a global fashion.

Cover Image Courtesy of AP Photo/Lionel Cironneau.

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CULTURE

DIGITAL MODELS

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When you think of an influencer, I’m sure you imagine a close to a perfect looking girl (or guy) seeming to be living their best life (traveling, events, partying, etc.) and advertising products, as documented through social media. It’s easy to forget that they’re real people like us, probably going through the ups and downs that humans experience daily.

However, most people usually don’t follow influencers to see those aspects of their lives; they follow them for a mini escape from reality, one where life just looks perfect. And what other better way to experience this than following the new wave of these influencers: CGI ones.

Scrolling through the Instagram user ‘lilmiquela’s page, it’s hard not to do a double take before realizing, yes, in fact, she is an AI model. From magazine covers to campaigns, to editorials and collabs with companies like Vogue, Wonderland, Prada, UGG, and more, she’s taken not only the internet world but the industry as well by a storm.

Balmain has also played into the idea of CGI models, with having three digital models being the face of their campaign in 2018. One of them, Shudu (a creation by British photographer Cameron-James Wilson) is claimed to be the world’s first digital supermodel, after appearing in multiple editorials as well as being featured on ‘Fenty Beauty’s Instagram. Although Shudu’s gained a large following, digital models can be controversial as they essentially portray unrealistic beauty standards (I mean, they’re literally not real) as well as take the spot for real women, especially POC, who are trying to achieve that level of success.

It’ll certainly be interesting to see what the future holds for AI models, and how much they actually will take over the fashion, beauty, and lifestyle world.

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AR SNAPCHAT LENS X DAMIEN HIRST

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Damien Hirst / Snapchat, 2020

This augmented reality feature is the new engaging filter allowing users the chance to recreate one of Damien Hirst’s most infamous Spin Paintings. The British artist has partnered up with Snapchat to develop the interactive filter in aid of Partners in Health.

The filter is now available worldwide to the Snapchat community, enabling users to virtually create their own spin art by pouring and splashing vivid colours onto a rotating canvas.

Damien Hirst / Snapchat, 2020

On the collaboration, Damien Hirst stated:

“It’s amazing to be working with Snapchat on this totally mega spin art lens and making it possible for millions of people to make their own spin paintings right from their phones. I’m so happy that this partnership also supports Partners in Health, a brilliant and forward-thinking organisation that helps communities in developing countries around the world cope with devastating impact of COVID-19”.

 

In order to contribute your own spin artworks to a virtual gallery, access is being enabled through the ‘Our Story’ function. This encouraging new feature is allowing people to share their creations inspired by the artist’s own Spin Paintings across the world, from the comforts of their own homes.

 

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CULTURE

WILL.I.AM UNVEILS TECH-DRIVEN FACE MASK

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After coming up with the idea while traveling on an airplane amid the pandemic, Will.i.am is introducing a clever tech-driven face mask, a joint venture with manufacturer Honeywell. Xupermask is outfitted with three dual-speed fans and a Honeywell high-efficiency particulate-arresting (HEPA) air filtration system.

It also includes noise-canceling audio and microphone capabilities as well as Bluetooth 5.0 connectivity and LED day glow lights. To assist with the design, Will.i.am enlisted Jose Fernandezwho through his Ironhead Studio, a costume and creature design firm, has created costumes for films including The Amazing Spider-Man, X-Men United and The Avengers.

Courtesy of Xupermark

Created in two color schemes — white/gray/orange and black/black/orange — the Xupermask comes in two sizes and accompanied by a carrying case, three-month supply of HEPA filters, ear tips and USB-C charging cable. The first drop has already sold out, follow Xupermask for details on the second drop.

Courtesy of Xupermark
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