BLUP50
BLUP50 TALENT FEATURE // HELEN KIRKUM
London-based artist and designer, Helen’s artisanship has garnered international acclaim and it is her ability to tell stories through her designs that sets her work apart. Each pair of sneakers she makes is unique, weaving together the memories of the components that make it, allowing the owner to own something inherently personal and one-of-a-kind.
She is widely considered a pioneer of the hacked and deconstructed aesthetic within the sneaker industry, and in the vanguard of the sustainable footwear movement.
Through her practice, Helen challenges us to rethink the meaning of consumption and the way we interact with the products we own.
// YOUR WORD FOR 2021
Confidence.
// WHAT HAVE YOU SEEN ONLINE/INSTAGRAM /TIKTOK / TWITTER THAT HAS STOPPED YOU SCROLLING?
@ConceptKicks they are always posting really interesting sneakers. The other day I saw the ACNE patchwork boots that stopped me from scrolling for a hot second.
// GIVE US A WHISTLE STOP TOUR OF YOUR CAREER TO DATE
I graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2016 with an MA in Footwear Design. Straight after I worked at adidas for the Women’s Originals team for a year, I worked on loads of amazing projects, including the Sambarose. Next I worked in the Alexander Wang team for a little bit. That was really exciting.
After I left there I started doing consultancy, I consulted for Yeezy for a year across Calabasas and the UK.
I then started my own brand and also started doing a little bit more consultancy for brands, such as BYREDO – helping them make their byproduct sneaker and The Salvagers working on their manifesto sneaker.
I then moved on to more of my own projects. I started working on collaborations with brands. I collaborated on a piece for Takashi Murakami for Complex Con, Sneakers for Breakfast, which was an incredible experience.
Next was the Timberland Construct 10061 project. After which I started getting some amazing collaborations with Melissa, with Adidas, with Reebok and that has taken me to where I am now.
I am currently focusing on my made-to-order service, where I create made-to-order sneakers for individual clients. Customers can order directly through our website and we create bespoke sneakers that are the only ones to ever exist in the world. We have two silhouettes LEGACY and VOYAGE where the sneakers can be made from their own personal sneakers or from our stock of recycled components.
I would say that is the whistle stop tour to date.
//WHAT DOES 24 HOURS IN YOUR LIFE LOOK LIKE?
It varies every day, really, depending on what I’m doing, but on a typical day, I would get up, have my breakfast, have my coffee and then cycle to the studio. I cycle through Victoria Park to the studio, which is absolutely lovely. When I get here, I usually put on a playlist or the radio, to try and get into the groove a little bit.
Next I’ll check my emails. If my team is in, we will discuss what we’re doing for the day, what needs to be done, where the priorities are. Some days are a lot of admin and, you know, sorting out your business.
Other days are really creative. I try to have as many creative days as possible where I can really work on getting my hands dirty, working on a tactile product, tactile creation, and really push the needle forwards with what I’m doing within the brand.
At the end of the day I cycle back home, chill and sometimes try to forget about the day. Otherwise if there’s something to do, you’ll find me at a gig. I love going to gigs. I love going to see what’s happening in the grunge music scene of London, going to small venues and dive bars, which I’ve definitely missed during the pandemic. It’s nice to get back into that. And if I’m not doing that or seeing friends, I’m probably watching the real Housewives of Beverly Hills.
// WHAT DO YOU DO TO SWITCH OFF OR CHILL?
Watch the real Housewives of Beverly Hills! I do actually love to watch reality TV and trash TV. I think for me, it does really help me switch off and go into a different life.
I also like to go for a walk, a cycle, do yoga, see friends and go to gigs. I think for me, going to gigs just releases a lot of energy and a lot of angst, which is sometimes what you need.
// WHAT HAS BEEN ONE OF YOUR BEST CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?
Oh, God I’ve had so many! I would say recently, we just did our first ever debut presentation at London Fashion Week 2021.
It was the first time we were on schedule and we created an amazing debut show. We showed our new made-to-order collection. We had the amazing LÅPSLEY performing and also doing a DJ set. We had an incredible poet called Phoebe Wagner, who we commissioned specifically for the show, performing her poetry which was really incredible.
We had an amazing immersive projection from Alistair Redding which was a beautiful experience. We had beers from Toast Ale, which is a fantastic sustainable beer company based in London. So it was just a totally immersive experience and showcased what the HELEN KIRKUM brand is all about, what our world consists of.
// WHAT DO YOU SEE IN YOUR FUTURE?
Lots of shoes. I think the future is really about continuing to change the perception of newness within the industry to keep pushing boundaries on what’s acceptable within recycled and upcycled products, to keep creating artistic pieces and keep putting my vision into the world.
// IF YOU COULD COLLABORATE WITH ONE CREATIVE/BRAND WHO WOULD IT BE?
I feel really lucky to have collaborated with loads of incredible companies. I think I would love to work with someone like Vivienne Westwood to create a kind of world saving sneaker. I think that would be one to tick off the bucket list for sure.
// WHO IS YOUR GREATEST INSPIRATION?
I have loads of different inspirations. I think for me it always comes back to family. I think primarily of my Nana, who taught me to knit and crochet. She was always inspiring me to be creative. And I think that her encouragement was, and still is, a massive inspiration to me. The same goes for the rest of my family, my mum and dad, they’re always inspiring me and encouraging me to go for it. So yeah, got to say family.
// YOUR FAVOURITE SONG OF 2021 SO FAR?
I would have to say ‘Keep Swimming’ by my partner’s band called Lyena. It completely epitomises where we’ve been in the last 18 months, how we felt and how we’ve kept going.
// WHAT DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO SAY ABOUT YOU AT THE END OF YOUR CAREER?
She did good in the world.
// WHAT IS THE BIGGEST ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO NEW CREATIVES?
I would say my biggest advice goes back to my Nana Iris. She always used to say to me, ‘You can only do what you think is right at the time.’ That has helped me navigate through my career.
I think so often we think about what we do, the opportunities we have and we worry about what we could have done, what we should have done. If you make every decision thinking at this time, this is the right decision for me, then it helps you to not regret anything. So you can only do what you think is right at the time.
More practical advice. I would say don’t leave your portfolio at any brands, be enthusiastic and be nice to people. Being enthusiastic about other people’s work, being kind and a good person gets you very far in this industry. And it also helps you to live a more joyous life.
// WHAT’S IMPORTANT TO YOU IN YOUR WORLD RIGHT NOW?
The planet is important to me. Everything that I do is driven by this idea to spread awareness about the state of post-consumer waste and what we can do about it.
I will keep driving that forward. So that’s definitely something that’s very important to me. Another thing that’s super important to me is to spread creativity and the joy of creative practice, especially within the UK. Creative subjects get a really hard time and I love to teach and educate students about the joy and the importance of creativity.
Those are my two most important social and political issues.
Also see the HELEN KIRKUM & REEBOK COLLAB with 20 handmade pairs on Zig.
FOLLOW HELEN
Co-Founder of For Sure Studio Ben Paul joins us this week for our next BLUP50 talent feature. In Ben’s own words, “…’what if’ should be excluded from your internal vocabulary. The only thing that holds you back is yourself.” Last year, in one of the most unpredictable, unsettling times of our lives, Ben squashed his own ‘what if’ and decided to set up his own creative studio. Read on to find out who Ben’s greatest inspiration is and what his future vision for For Sure is.
// YOUR WORD FOR 2021
Momentum
// WHAT HAVE YOU SEEN ONLINE/INSTAGRAM /TIKTOK / TWITTER THAT HAS STOPPED YOU SCROLLING?
@reubendangoor’s work always does it for me. @thisiscollins are one of my favorite agencies, their attention to detail is something I always aspire to.
// GIVE US A WHISTLE STOP TOUR OF YOUR CAREER TO DATE
Graduated with a degree in design back in 2009. Went perm then freelance, until setting up on my own in 2015. March 2020 myself and my friend Matt (who had a similar passion for research led design), decided two heads were better than one. For Sure was born and we’ve not looked back since.
//WHAT DOES 24 HOURS IN YOUR LIFE LOOK LIKE?
I try to segment my day off as much as possible to help me focus on the task in hand. Only having meetings at specific times of the day really helps focus the creative time spent on developing ideas.
// WHAT DO YOU DO TO SWITCH OFF OR CHILL?
Usually I would offset a hectic day with sport, it helps me refocus for the following day. Love a good playlist too!
// WHAT HAS BEEN ONE OF YOUR BEST CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?
The day left my full-time job. Not because of the job, but more of the fact that it was the springboard for me to think completely freely and build a route to starting For Sure Studio. I certainly went the long-way round but we’re here now and I’m very grateful of the lessons I’ve learnt on the journey so far.
// WHAT DO YOU SEE IN YOUR FUTURE?
Expanding the studio, finding our niche in the market and exploring that further. Hiring some amazing talent whilst cultivating a working environment I would be proud of and so would our staff. Away from work I hope that I’m still able to grace the football pitch well into my forties. And spend some time creating away from a screen, with a few paint brushes instead.
// IF YOU COULD COLLABORATE WITH ONE CREATIVE/BRAND WHO WOULD IT BE?
Kendrick Lemar. It would be a dream of mine to work with him on some tour creative, after having witnessed the DAMN tour live. He has such clarity in his vision, he’s able to refine and present his message in a way I’ve not seen before.
// WHO IS YOUR GREATEST INSPIRATION?
I guess mines an inspiring moment. Michael Jordan’s flu game, could barely stand up, yet he went onto score 38 points when his team needed him the most. I’ll always remember that game he’s the GOAT of all sports for me.
// WHAT DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO SAY ABOUT YOU AT THE END OF YOUR CAREER?
That you’ve built a company that will be here long after I’m gone.
// WHAT IS THE BIGGEST ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO NEW CREATIVES?
‘What if’ should be excluded from your internal vocabulary. The only thing that holds you back is yourself.
// WHAT’S IMPORTANT TO YOU IN YOUR WORLD RIGHT NOW?
Checking in with all my friends and family, keeping a good balance in life as things open up again. Working with the local community to bring in some top talent to For Sure Studio.
// ANYTHING ELSE TO SHARE?
Just a big shout out to Dines and Studio Blup for all of the guidance and support. It really means a lot. Big love. BP x
FOLLOW BEN:
Swoosh recruits Kelly Anna London as A.I.R.
When it comes to Nike’s extensive line of running sneakers, the brand often invites artists to lend their creative visions. For its ongoing Artist In Residence (A.I.R.) series, the Swoosh recruits Kelly Anna London to take on one of its newest silhouettes—the Nike Pegasus 38.
Recognized for her powerful, silhouetted figures that are often connected to sports and body positivity, London indulges the performance trainer’s black mesh uppers in colorful, haphazard shapes and figures that seem to be a modern twist on Henri Matisse’s work. The hues used in her patterns are also applied elsewhere, such as the pastel green used on the lateral side’s oversized Swoosh outline and the laces. Additionally, a royal blue colors the lace loops and the inside. A midsole with a design that’s just as busy as the uppers’ rounds out the look, as the React foam and Zoom Air-cushioned unit features black paint splatters on a white base.
Release date to be announced.
Speaking to our latest BLUP50 member Chikay was a real eye opener. Chikay hasn’t just ‘fallen’ into where she is now as Head of Global Growth & Marketing Partnerships at Cult Beauty – one of the biggest digital beauty brands globally. In fact having moved form Leeds straight after Uni to trying a number of jobs to get a foot in the door and finance her London living – Chikay’s is the epitome of GRIT! In a recent instagram post, Chikay also opened up and shared her experience of Asian Hate Crime which definitely shed new light on how serious a matter it is. Read on to find out more about Chikay’s journey to success.
// YOUR WORD FOR 2021
Kindness
// WHAT HAVE YOU SEEN ONLINE/INSTAGRAM /TIKTOK / TWITTER THAT HAS STOPPED YOU SCROLLING?
I try to follow a big range of accounts – those that promote positive news, memes obviously but also accounts that provide education on international issues that mainstream press deem not worthy to report on and it is usually these that stop me in my tracks.
// GIVE US A WHISTLE STOP TOUR OF YOUR CAREER TO DATE
Sep 2011 – Moved to London after graduating for an unpaid internship for a marketing agency and quickly realised that there was no long-term career prospect for me there when my daily tasks were primarily made up of changing the bins and emptying the dishwasher.
2 weeks later – Quit the internship and walked into the first shop I would think of (Selfridges on Oxford Street) and managed to get a job on the spot as a sales assistant to finance my stay in London to look for more long-term roles.
2012 – Sales negotiator at Foxtons for 7 months
Aug 2012 – This is when my career in digital marketing began, I was offered a role in an online drinks start up business 31DOVER by David Laurie, the then CEO who I had met whilst working on the shop floor in Selfridges. Working at Selfridges was a tough time for me with no friends around (I was the first to move to London) and at work staff were treated horrendously by both management and customers. BUT I wouldn’t change this experience for the world, I would not be doing what I do now had I not been there and met David.
Oct 2013 – Search Engine Marketing at NET-A-PORTER
Feb 2015 – For the past 6 years I’ve been at Cult Beauty where I currently look over the global growth and partnerships strategy of the business!
//WHAT DOES 24 HOURS IN YOUR LIFE LOOK LIKE?
On a normal weekday I wake up bleary eyed and reluctantly put on my workout kit to exercise on my spin bike before the day starts. Then coffee and a big breakfast is next on the agenda whilst I check my emails and prep for the meetings of the day, I average around 5 zoom calls a day so it’s a constant balancing act of meetings/getting back to emails/supporting my team whilst also trying to tick off my never ending to do list.
Myself and my sister are also in the processing of buying a property so evenings now are primarily made up of reviewing contracts/paperwork whilst watching cartoons (Rick and Morty/Bob’s Burgers is my poison)
// WHAT DO YOU DO TO SWITCH OFF OR CHILL?
This is going to sound bizarre but it’s got to be spinning for me. When I go on my bike, I completely zone out I don’t think about my to do lists or worry and my focus is pushing myself to my absolute fullest. It’s honestly like therapy for me but cheaper!
// WHAT HAS BEEN ONE OF YOUR BEST CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?
I am incredibly lucky to have quite a few awards and accolades under my belt BUT watching the progression of my team must be my proudest achievement to date. I have an unbelievably talented team of bright hard working talent who have also won awards for their achievements. To see that gives me more joy than anything else in my career.
// WHAT DO YOU SEE IN YOUR FUTURE?
The last year has taught me to not plan too far ahead in the future as anything can happen. I’d like to step into my future with an open mind, as long as I am happy and healthy with my friends and family around. (I would really like a doggo though – very specifically a Shiba Inu haha)
// IF YOU COULD COLLABORATE WITH ONE CREATIVE/BRAND WHO WOULD IT BE?
Ben and Jerry’s – without a doubt. I admire this brand so much for their unapologetic advocation to support progressive and polarising issues that need to be addressed.
// WHAT DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO SAY ABOUT YOU AT THE END OF YOUR CAREER?
I find a lot of enjoyment in helping others develop their skills, if I’ve made a difference to someone’s career (be it from a progression standpoint or there to support them during difficult times) that would give me so much joy.
// WHAT IS THE BIGGEST ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO NEW CREATIVES?
I wouldn’t consider myself a creative in the traditional sense, a lot of my work actually revolves around data analysis and strategy however creativity is key to thinking differently and innovating within the space. Find your passion, what you are good at and constantly push yourself to try new ideas, there will be setbacks and mistakes along the way but find opportunities in these to learn.
// WHAT’S IMPORTANT TO YOU IN YOUR WORLD RIGHT NOW?
I feel incredibly passionate about equality/racial justice/human rights – I think it is important to hold businesses and individuals accountable and responsible to action huge improvements that’s necessary in these areas.
// ANYTHING ELSE YOU WOULD LIKE TO MENTION?
The #stopasianhate movement is very close to my heart, for anyone who is interested to learn more about my personal experiences and ways to help I do talk about this subject regularly on my Instagram
FOLLOW CHIKAY
-
FASHION1 week ago
NEW AIR JORDAN 36 DRIPPING WITH GOLD
-
ENTERTAINMENT1 week ago
NETFLIX IS PLANNING A LA CASA DE PAPEL (MONEY HIGHEST) SPINOFF BASED ON BERLIN’S CHARACTER
-
FASHION1 week agoFIRST LOOK AT POKÉMON X LEVI’S NEW COLLECTION
-
FASHION1 week agoSUPREME RELEASES AN AIRSTREAM FOR ITS SS2022 COLLECTION
-
CULTURE1 week ago
GUCCI X BALENCIAGA’S HACKER PROJECT HAS DROPPED
-
FASHION1 week agoNORTH FACE X ONLINE CERAMICS FOR 70’S INSPIRED EARTH DAY COLLECTION
-
FASHION1 week ago
WHAT’S THE DEAL BEHIND TIFFANY & CO X NIKE’S AIR FORCE 1 COLLAB?
-
CULTURE1 week ago
A$AP ROCKY LOOKS BACK AT HIS BEST AND WORST FASHION MOMENTS